I’ve officially started periodization with a two week break to let my middle ring finger heal. It’s an injury that I go while bouldering indoors at the Indoor Ascent Climbing gym May of 2011. The injury has stayed with me till now and I’m not exactly sure what’s wrong with it O.o. It’s either a tendon or a ligament close to the second knuckle of the left hand middle finger. I’ve had other finger injuries before but this one is annoying as it flares up with more climbing/crimping and dies down as I climb less. I have taken the relatively extreme measure of transitioning from a crimp grip to an open hand grip over several months with progressive hand board training. My open hand is now stronger than my crimp on some holds.
Though my middle finger has appreciated the transition to a far less aggressive technique. the damage is still there and flares up under any significant crimping. I can only hope that more open hand gripping and this two week break helps. The last time I took a break it was from September 2011 to December 2011. That was after I climbed in Font and ignored the middle finger pain( kinda stupid in hindsight, I could have just exclusively climbed slopers, there was definitely enough of them -_- ). The break helped, it that all pain when away, but soon after I started bouldering, the pain came back, slowly at first, with the inflammation increasing as I was eagerly getting my strength back.
So I take two weeks off, hoping it enough, followed by two more week of technique building/less stress on fingers type of climbing. Two weeks off followed by two more weeks of open hand technique will hopefully rehabilitate the fingers.
the plan is currently two weeks of rest and then a 2-3-2-1 cycle of technique-power/finger strength - anaerobic endurance -rest , with a climbing/training frequency of 4-2-3-0 times a week.